"On a spring afternoon, Albert, a high school senior, sits in a waiting area with his parents at a dim sum restaurant in New York. It's an unusually slow Saturday--the wait is only two and a half hours, much less than a week ago, when the restaurant stopped taking the names of hopeful diners by just 1 p.m. "My colleague in Hong Kong told me how popular it was, so we decided to check it out," says his father."

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