Illustration by Peter Oumanksi

Illustration by Peter Oumanksi

"Some of my most cherished restaurants, the ones I still haunt when I return to New York, are opening outposts in Los Angeles: Jean-Georges, whose flavors are so distilled, it justifies entering Trump Tower; the NoMad, where I feel I’m cheating them by paying only $89 for their chicken; Dominique Ansel, whose famed cronut I shun for his perfect kouign-amann; the Mario Batali co-owned Eataly emporium, where I’ve shared a midday grande piatto misto di salumi e formaggi with no one other than a glass of Gavi di Gavi; and the Spotted Pig, where my only bad experience was waiting two hours for my meal because Jay Z decided to have his birthday there. (There are 99 reasons to like the Spotted Pig, but Jay Z is not one.) We’re also importing Cosme, with its $89 duck carnitas that I hear are as good as chicken."

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