Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine

Photo: Bobby Doherty/New York Magazine

 

“We’re in Henry’s booth, in case you didn’t know,” the longtime regular whispers, as we sit down to lunch in the famous dining room on the ground floor of the Seagram Building, with its cathedral ceilings, its polished wood walls, and waves of metal curtains shimmering on the tall windows. The “Henry” in question is Henry Kissinger, of course, and the booth in question is the middle one of five on the east side of the old Grill Room, which is where the restaurant’s previous proprietor and front-of-the-house man, Julian Niccolini, used to array his most prominent regulars, every weekday at lunchtime, like walruses on a rock.*

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