ARAM BOGHOSIAN FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE

ARAM BOGHOSIAN FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE

"It’s 6:30 p.m. at Jimmy’s Steer House in Arlington. A gray-haired waitress hustles across the dining room clutching a neon-green margarita that looks like a birdbath — a deal at $6.99. “They’re good,” she says out of the side of her mouth to a gawking table, not missing a step. Another group of waitresses huddles around a booth, toting strawberry shortcake topped with flickering candles."

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