Photo: Popperfoto/Getty Images

Photo: Popperfoto/Getty Images

"One day, not long after the new Union Square Cafe reopened in December, I caught a glimpse of the photos taped to the inside of the hosts’ wooden podium. A series of faces, they looked like those pictures of busted shoplifters you see at bodega cash registers, but these were the faces of New York’s small army of esteemed restaurant critics: Adam Platt, Steve Cuozzo from the Post, Ryan Sutton from Eater, and of course Times critic Pete Wells. God help whoever was working the door if any of them slipped by unnoticed."

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