Chef Kevin Li cooks at Reren Lamen & Bar in Chinatown in 2016. (Sarah L. Voisin/The Washington Post)

Chef Kevin Li cooks at Reren Lamen & Bar in Chinatown in 2016. (Sarah L. Voisin/The Washington Post)

"Last July, in the heat of the presidential campaign, my friend Jim and I were standing outside of Reren Lamen & Bar on Seventh Street NW when a pack of bros — young, white, full of themselves — crossed our paths on the sidewalk. A Reren employee, hustling for business outside the restaurant, suggested the guys might want to check out the Chinese-style ramen."

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